Four British climbers made history on Wednesday by becoming the first to summit Mount Everest using Xenon gas, which significantly reduced the time typically needed for high-altitude acclimatisation, according to their expedition organiser.
Under normal conditions, climbers spend weeks or even months on Everest allowing their bodies to adjust to the thin air before making a summit attempt. Ascending too quickly without proper acclimatisation can be extremely dangerous. However, the British team, who had undergone Xenon gas inhalation treatments in Germany prior to their journey, reached the 8,848-metre (29,032 ft) peak in under five days after departing London, said Lukas Furtenbach of Austria-based Furtenbach Adventures, which led the expedition.
In addition to using supplemental oxygen during their climb—standard for most Everest summits—the team also trained at home by sleeping in altitude-simulating tents.
Xenon, a colourless and odourless gas present in trace amounts in Earth’s atmosphere, is known for its anaesthetic and medical properties. “Xenon enhances acclimatisation and helps protect the body from altitude sickness and the effects of low oxygen,” Furtenbach explained via text from Everest base camp.
While Xenon has previously been used by mountain guides, Furtenbach noted this was the first time it had been employed by non-professional climbers.
He added that the gas made the climb both safer and faster by helping maintain proper acclimatisation throughout the ascent. “A shorter expedition also means less waste, fewer resources used, and reduced environmental impact in this fragile area,” he said, referencing growing concerns over garbage and pollution on Everest.
However, the innovative approach drew some criticism. American mountaineer and guide Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow Expeditions called the use of Xenon “a stunt” and questioned whether it aligned with the spirit of mountaineering. “Everyone should climb in a way they can be proud of. If this is their style, that’s their choice,” he said.
So far this climbing season, which runs from March to May, Nepal has issued 468 Everest permits, and over 200 climbers have already reached the summit.
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